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Grass and Pasture in New Zealand – The What, Why, How of Grazing and Grass Related Issues for Horses Maintaining Grazing Paddocks for Horses ​ New Zealand is the land of green pastures with many different grasses and plants growing in them. In the main, grass is the best fodder for a horse, it is natural and balanced with fibre, carbohydrates, fats and protein, some minerals and most vitamins. ​ However, some grasses are better than others and only the best of equine dedicated properties can choose which grasses are grown. Many owners have horses on land where there they cannot have a say on the composition of the grazing. Many agistment properties are over grazed and not replenished so they become quite poor in the quality of the pasture, and weeds take over – some of them dangerous to horses. ​ To get the best out of the property you are on, good maintenance will help maximise the quality in terms of nutritional value to the horse. A clear plan should be set up to ensure horses are rotated so paddocks are rested until they recover. As soon as the horse is moved, the area should be mown (that kills many weeds) and harrowed to aerate the soil and spread the poo. Ideally poo should be picked up from small paddocks but sometimes this is not always a possibility so harrowing will prevent it from clumping and souring the soil. Fertilising is a good option too, even just spreading lime can rebalance the pH of the soil and help improve growth. Spraying may be necessary for heavy infestation of persistent weeds, but regular mowing can reduce that need. Note that short grass has a much higher sugar level than long grass so allow the resting paddock to grow long before returning a horse that may be susceptible to high sugar intake which can create more energy, (for more information read the article (hvhoofandequinehealthcareproducts.com/carbohydrates-in-grass) or too much weight (for more, read the article ‘Laminitis from Dietary Intake ’). ​ Poor Grasses and Weeds to Avoid for Horses ​ Firstly, nontoxic weeds (eg. blackberry, gorse,dock etc.) will move in on poorly maintained land and take up space, reducing the availability for nutritious grasses. Trampled paddocks can become weedy and poor, as the soil texture is altered and does nor support quality growth. In those conditions supplementing with Vitamin E is needed and a full mineral mix should always be a daily supplement. There are also some weeds and grasses to be avoided as they do have a toxic effect on a horse. ​ Ragwort - (Jacobaea vulgaris) ​ Not normally eaten when growing and flowering in the paddock but becomes palatable when dead and dry, especially when it is in hay. It is important to know if your hay has come from pastures that have ragwort. It create serious liver disease and can often be fatal. ​ Catsear - (Hypochaeris radicata) ​ It looks like dandelion with a rosette of leaves but it has multiple yellow flowers on a green hairy stem. Dandelion has one flower per smooth stem. Eating Catsear can cause neurological symptoms like staggers and/or stringhalt. ​ Paspalum - (Paspalum spp) ​ A common pasture grass which grows well in a wet humid Spring or Summer in New Zealand. The sticky seed heads, if eaten, can cause stagger like symptoms, particularly when the seed heads have turned black. Not usually fatal unless the horse falls into a dangerous area and can’t recover. Removing from the pasture will resolve the condition. ​ Johnson Grass - (Sorghum halepense) ​ Originally eradicated, there is now a new infestation spreading in New Zealand. It is drought resistant and toxic when young and stressed by trampling, climate etc. The cyanide compound that develops in those conditions can be fatal. ​ Tall fescue - (Festuca arundinacea) ​ This is an Australian species that has recently appeared in New Zealand. It causes equine fescue oedema, obvious signs are swelling of the head, neck, chest and abdomen. Depression and loss of appetite can occur. Some cases have proved fatal. ​ Endophyte protected Ryegrass - (Lolium perenne) ​ Commonly used in dairy pastures, the grass is vulnerable to attack by a weevil and so a fungus was developed to protect the young grass. This fungus is called an endophyte. Ingesting this endophyte can cause staggers – a neurological state that makes the horse unrideable and sometime prone to falling over. ​ Kikuyu – (Pennisetum clandestine) ​ A grass found in the upper part of the North Island on roadside verges and often in horse pasture as it spreads easily by long runners. It is not very good for horses as it does not provide good nutrition and squeezes out the grasses that do. In itself it is not toxic but it is an oxalate grass which does have a negative effect on the uptake of calcium in horses. For more information read our article Calcium Supplementation- How this relates to oxalate grasses ​ What are Good Grasses for Horses? ​ A mix of grasses and legumes – leafy to stemmy, is better than one dominant species. A horse will vary what they eat through the seasons, for example they are likely to graze grasses in the winter and spring, and legumes in the summer and autumn. Also different grasses and legumes grow at different rates throughout the year. There is quite a variety of climate and soil types throughout New Zealand so if you do have the opportunity to sow a paddock then check out the available mixes for equine grazing with your local seed supplier – they will have the best options for a horse in your particular area with regard to soil type and climate. Some mixes don’t contain perennial ryegrass but if it does not have the endophyte then it is a good addition to a mix for horse pastures. The core of the best grasses for quality nutrition for grazing horses are: Grasses: Non Endophyte Perennial Ryegrass Timothy Prairie grass Non endophyte Tall fescue Kentucky bluegrass Cocksfoot Legumes/Herbs: Alfalfa Some white clover (limit) Some red clover (limit) Chicory Other grasses and legumes may be added which provide fibre and may suit certain areas prone to drought for example. The seed specialist will advise on these. If the paddocks cannot be ploughed and reseeded, sometimes overseeding can assist to improve the quality of the pasture. Again the advice of a local seed specialist is very useful. ​ Hay and Haylage-Baylage- Is it Good for a Horse? ​ Hay is grass that has been naturally sun dried and baled in the Summer and usually stored for a season before being fed as a supplementary feed to horses that are on poor pasture or stabled. Hay is not as nutritious as fresh green fodder and the longer it is stored the lower the levels of vitamins and minerals. It makes no sense when owners withdraw their horses from green pasture for behaviour reasons and then feed hay, they are still feeding grass. Fresh pasture is high in sugars which still exist in hay. It is the digestion difficulty of the sugars that creates negative behaviour and can be solved withhvhoofandequinehealthcareproducts.com/product-page/digest-rite-sport-2kg so that the horse can stay on the nutritious pasture. Hay should smell fresh, have a slight green colour, be totally dry but not dusty, and with no weeds or mould. It should be cut from quality grasses ideal for horses. ​ Haylage and Baylage is grass that has been cut earlier (and wetter) than hay and wrapped in plastic to encourage fermentation by anaerobic bacteria. Good quality haylage from a reputable source is digestible and palatable to a horse. However it is vital that the wrapping has no holes (not even pinhole) and that in warm conditions is eaten within a few days of opening. This is because once the seal is broken and it is open to any air for too long, botulism will result and that is extremely toxic to horses. Severe colic and even death may result. ​ Grass Sickness or Grass Affected Horses – What is This? ​ Firstly, Grass Sickness is a very serious disease in horses and is mainly prevalent in horses in Great Britain. There have been no recorded instances in New Zealand. A lot of research has been undergone over many years and the causal agent is still unknown, but currently it is thought it may be a soil borne bacteria Clostridium botulinum. Symptoms may start with mild intermittent colic but can also be severe and gut paralysis can develop and is then fatal. ​ Grass Affected Horses is not a veterinary accepted condition or term, it is a uniquely peculiar New Zealand definition which seems to have arisen as a generalism to describe horses that have changed in attitude to be either full of beans or grumpy and touchy. Some will say it comes from “toxins in the grass”. It should be noted that ingestion of toxins makes animals (and people!) sick, they don’t make them full of beans and energy. Bucket loads of toxin binders are poured into horses in an attempt to remove these mythical toxins. ​ The problem truly arises from the horses poor digestion of grass (and feed) sugars and starches, causing mild gut ache as partially digested and fermented feed moves into the hindgut and the lactic acid comes in to break it down. It is easily fixed by feeding a supplement with digestive enzymes which enhance the process in the foregut and relieve the discomfort. The toxin binders on the market are actually a Silicated clay and may help to slow the passage of the feed through the gut. They have been developed overseas primarily for pigs and poultry to remove fusarium moulds from poorly stored and mouldy grains, especially corn. They have never been developed for New Zealand pasture which does not have those moulds. Sadly there is an obsession with these products and a lot of unnecessary clay is being fed to horses, some of whom just feel good and are maybe too bright and energetic for their owners. Maybe Grass Affected Horses should instead be called “Overfed- Underworked Affected horses.” ​ Removing horses from pasture and locking them up and feeding hay is irrational (hay is grass) and unfair on an animal whose natural environment should allow him freedom to roam and graze. In New Zealand we have so much opportunity for horses to live as natural existence as possible. In other parts of the world horses have to be stabled and this is a complex management issue and carried out by experienced professionals. If your horse is difficult to manage talk to a qualified professional – a veterinarian, an experienced trainer, about their symptoms. It may have nothing to do with the grass.

PROBLEMS WITH COUGHS & COLDS? Horses are always vulnerable to respiratory viruses, particular at season change time. There are several different types but the important factor is to recognise the symptoms quickly and stop work immediately. Keep them in an airy clean environment and warm without getting too hot. The symptoms of a runny nose, light or thick mucus, maybe a cough, maybe runny eyes, a temperature above the norm, lethargic; can be eased by reducing dust and spores which irritate. Clean bedding, wet hay, damp feed always given on the ground, good ventilation will help. However giving an expectorant to loosen the mucus so it flows out, like Virex which also has a cough suppressant, and keeping the nasal passages open with Nasal Eze which also reduces the dust and spores going up the respiratory tract, will help improve comfort and recovery for the horse. If a virus is ignored and steps are not taken to clear the airways of mucus, the result maybe as secondary infection which will need antibiotics and a much longer recovery. Most simple viruses will go though in 10-12 days. Symptoms after that, especially if the mucus become thick and coloured, may indicate an infection and a veterinarian will be needed. For more information on coughs and colds check out the links below. HELP RESOURCES Herpes in Horses Dr Peter Gillespie. BVSc MACVS. Viral respiratory disease is the most common reasons for coughs and colds and for poor performance in competition horses in New Zealand. The early recognition of infections is important to ensure recovery is quick and uncomplicated. The following two articles entitled “The Truth About Herpes And Horses” and “The Coughing Horse” provide an insight into the special characteristics of the Equine Herpes Viruses especially the symptoms and the complications associated with infections. Other causes of respiratory problems are also discuused. There are no magical cures for these viral infections. Treatment is based on a common sense approach outlined in what is known as the ‘Four Point Treatment Plan’. The Truth About Herpes and Horses How often do we hear horse owners talk about ‘a virus’ being responsible for a horse’s poor performance during a race or an event. Are they accurate in their assessment or is the blame being laid unfairly? There are many reasons for the so-called ‘poor performance syndrome’. Musculo-skeletal injuries are by far the most common cause but viral respiratory infections also justify their share of the blame. The ‘viruses’ horse-owners usually refer to are members of the family of Equine Herpes Viruses that infect the respiratory system of horses. There are eight members of the family in total, five affect horses while the remaining three affect donkeys. Equine Herpes Virus Family EHV4 is the most common herpes infection in New Zealand. Serological tests carried out on a cross section of the national horse population have shown it to be endemic. EHV1 is also prevalent though not as widespread as EHV4. The respiratory disease caused by each is indistinguishable from the other so both viruses can be considered together. Spread of the virus between horses is via nasal discharge or aerosol transfer. Contact between horses in either a herd or stable situation leads to cross infection. Upon entry to the nasal passages and throat, the virus incubates for between 5 to 7 days. During this time it multiplies and the symptoms associated with the infection begin to appear. VirusHostDisease EHV1Horse(i) Respiratory infections (ii) Abortions in late pregnancy (iii) Fatal neonatal disease (iv) Neurological infections EHV2HorseNot known EHV3HorseGenital Lesions EHV4Horse(i) Respiratory infections (ii) Abortions (rare) EHV5HorseNot known EHV6DonkeyGenital lesions EHV7DonkeyNot known EHV8DonkeyNasal inflammation Symptoms SYMPTOMS ASSOCIATED WITH EHV1 AND EHV4 RESPIRATORY INFECTIONS. Fever – temperature increases above 38 C. Nasal Discharge – initially clear and watery; may change to thick yellow muco-pus. Mild conjunctivitis – discharge from the eyes. Coughing – not always a feature. Loss of appetite. In some cases the infection is contained within the respiratory tract while in others the virus may spread throughout the body. A common feature of both EHV1 and EHV4 infections is the development of a secondary bacterial infection after the initial viral phase. When this occurs, both the disease process and the recovery period are prolonged. Equine Herpes Virus has the ability to establish a dormant infection in horses, in fact the majority of horses carry EHV4 in this form. There are no symptoms associated with a dormant infection but when a horse is subjected to any form of stress, the infection can surface. Cases like this are common in practice – horses suddenly develop a stress -induced viral infection when there is no history of contact with infected horses. Usually these type of infections are associated with no symptoms other than the horse being slightly ‘off colour’ and performing below expectations. The ability to exist in a dormant form is also the reason why an infected horse cannot develop a good post-infection immunity. EHV has gained the reputation as the ‘Immune System Escape Artist”. The dormant virus is able to move from cell to cell within the body thereby avoiding recognition by the body’s immune defence mechanisms. Because of the existence of the dormant form of the virus and the horse’s poor immune response, a horse can become reinfected after only a few months, a situation that can be both confusing and frustrating to owners and trainers. Treatment of EHV Infections There are four aspects to consider in the treatment of EHV infections. Avoid undue stress. Treat the symptoms. Maximise immune competence. Minimise the chance of reinfection. The avoidance of stress is an important part of the treatment plan. It means total rest. In cases where there are no secondary bacterial complications, two weeks is usually adequate. When a course of antibiotic treatment is necessary to treat a secondary bacterial infection, three to four weeks rest may be necessary. There are several products on the market that offer relief from the symptoms of coughing, nasal discharge and loss of appetite. They are all based on ammonium chloride and potassium iodide formulations. It is important to understand that these products do not represent ‘magical cures’ for viral infections. Used sensibly as part of the Four Point Treatment Plan, they have a place in the therapeutic approach to viral infections. The injectable immune stimulants such as Eqstim® are used to increase the activity of certain immune cells to fight infections. The results in cases of viral respiratory infections have been disappointing. A vaccine is available in New Zealand that combines protection against both EHV1 and EHV4. Its use has become widespread because it represents the best method for the treatment and prevention of EHV infections. After the initial four week, two injection course, six monthly boosters are necessary to maintain an effective level of immunity. It is important to understand that even with vaccination, protection is incomplete. However if re-infection does occur, the effect on the horse is less severe and recovery is a lot quicker. Cases that are complicated by secondary bacterial infections usually require antibiotic treatment hence a veterinary consultation is necessary. To minimise the chances of re-infection, good stable hygiene is important. Equipment used on infected horses should be disinfected before being used on other horse with an effective virus-killing disinfectant such as Virkon® or Halamid®. In conclusion, the important point to remember with EHV infections is to diagnose the condition sooner rather than later and then avoid placing undue stress on the horse. If this is done, complications will be fewer, recovery quicker and the cost of treatment less. Vetpro Virex and Nasal Eze are brilliant product that can relieve the symptoms of coughs and colds. Read also “Equine Herpes Virus Infections” by Annabel Ensor BVSc

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Kelp for Horses and Dogs – Why is Seaweed Good for Them Which Kelp It is important to understand that not just any kelp supplement from any type of seaweed is good for an animal supplement. Most are too high in iodine and that would quickly reach a toxic level. Ascophyllum nodosum seaweed from the cold North Atlantic has been used for centuries as a natural source feed supplement, low in iodine and rich in vitamins minerals and amino acids. For thousands of years the Chinese have used kelp in their food and medicines and for agricultural purposes. Investigations into the use of seaweed for animal supplementation were commenced in France following the First World War when fodder was limited. The results of these studies were positive and continued until an industry developed to provide seaweed meal to livestock. Nowadays it is processed using controlled geothermal heat. This allows the seaweed to keep its enzyme potency intact, and keep it a biologically active product with high levels of nutrients. When used on a regular basis, kelp can improve the nutritional wellbeing of your animal. ​ Why is Kelp Effective for Horses It is composed of 60 elements, 16 amino acids and 12 vitamins. As well as the combination of these nutrients the content of Algin provides an anti oxidant effect, it attracts heavy metals and removes them from the body. The availability of Carotene, Tocopherol and Folic Acid is useful. It also induces a high level of cytokinin type activity. Cytokinins are involved in cell division and as such growth and replacement of cells. It has been shown to improve thyroid stimulation and also has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory benefits. It is a very economical way to provide for most of the nutrients a horse that is not in hard work or coping with the demands of breeding. Those horses will need a more developed formula of macro and trace minerals like Vetpro Performance Minerals. ​ The Negative of Incorrect Kelp There are other kelps that can be used for liquid fertilisers and have been used for supplements. Other kelp than Ascophyllum nodosum may have high levels of iodine so it is very important to know which kelp is being used. A horse has a daily requirement of approximately 3 mg per day, however it can tolerate up to 50 mg before it has serious negative effects on their health. Some liquid Kelp supplements provide 120 mg is a dose – so it is very important to check the labels of any supplement containing kelp, or enquire as to how much iodine is provided in each recommended dose. Goitre is one of the main problems of overfeeding iodine. ​ Kelp for Dogs There is an increase in the use of green feeds for dogs, part of the move towards natural diets. Again it is important to make sure the kelp source is from the correct low iodine seaweed. Researcher Martin Zucker author of The Veterinarians Guide to Natural Remedies for Dogs, has included the benefits of kelp in a dog’s diet. He puts forward that it is useful against cancer, heart disease, mange, old age problems, and thyroid gland regulation. As with horses, the alginates will assist in preventing the absorption of toxic metals like mercury and cadmium. The full range of nutrients are beneficial for dogs, kelp has an advantage over other green feeds as it does not have cellulose encircling the cell wall, cellulose can be difficult for a dog to digest. Of particular advantage to dogs is the effect of not just coat colour enhancement, but very helpful for dogs with skin allergies and alopecia. It may take several weeks but improvement in skin dryness and itchiness have been recorded. As it helps to improve metabolism the energy level is increased and resistance to disease and assisting immune functions are other benefits.

A parasite is an organism that lives on or in an organism of another species, known as the host, from which the parasite obtains nutriment (Yuck!). Internal parasites of horses, therefore, live within the bodies of our horses and grow, feed, and reproduce there. Although there are a number of internal parasites, worms are the ones most horse owners think of when parasites are mentioned. We’ll focus on the different types of worms that infect our horses and how to treat for them and to control their numbers in the environment. As the name implies, parasites gain their nutrition from their hosts and give nothing in return. However, it is in their best interest not to kill their food source. Horses in the wild live a nomadic, grazing lifestyle, covering large areas in search of food. These horses carry a small worm burden, but their exposure is relatively low due to their constant movement that keeps the worm egg population low in any given area. Domestic horses, on the other hand, often carry very high, potentially health and life threatening worm burdens, due to high exposure and re-infection from confinement on small areas of pasture. Each parasite has a specific life cycle, but in general they follow a similar pattern. Eggs or larvae are passed in the manure and contaminate the environment. Horses grazing in that environment ingest the egg or larvae. The larvae develop and mature in the digestive tract (stomach or intestines). Some larvae migrate to other internal organs such as the lungs and blood vessels and can cause damage there, before returning to the intestines as mature adults to lay eggs. The adult worms lay eggs that are passed out in the manure (or develop into larvae that are passed) to start the cycle again. ​ What are the signs of parasites? Clinical signs of worm parasitism generally include weight loss, anemia, poor growth in younger horses, colic, diarrhea, poor hair coats, and death. Many horse owners are familiar with the typical pot-bellied, dull coated worm infested horse. Although this clinical picture may be easy to recognize, most infected horses will have much subtler signs even with serious infections that can result in death. It is very important to do a fecal egg count on your horse. A fecal egg count is more informative than a simple fecal floatation. This will tell you whether your horse is carrying any internal parasites, how many, and how effective your de-worming program is. A fecal flotation test to detect eggs will not detect most tapeworm infections, however. A blood test to determine exposure has been used to determine the prevalence of tapeworm infections What types of worms are common in horses? The most common and important worms that affect equine health are: Roundworms (Ascarids) – Parascuaris equorum or roundworms usually infect young horses age 3-15 months. Adult horses acquire a fairly strong immunity to ascarids. These worms have an unusual life cycle that involves the larvae migrating through various internal organs (causing damage as they travel) until they reach the lungs. The larvae are then coughed up into the horse’s mouth where they are swallowed and continue their life cycle in the digestive tract. Mature round worms can be several inches long and as thick as a pencil. These worms can cause an impaction of the intestines or stomach when found in large numbers. Caution should be taken when de-worming a heavily parasitized horse, as the dying roundworms can also cause an impaction. Consult your veterinarian if you suspect your horse has a heavy roundworm infection. Broodmares should be de-wormed thirty days prior to and /or at foaling to help decrease the foal’s exposure. Large Strongyles – Strongylus edentates, Stongylus vularis. Both the larval and adult stages of the large strongyles cause damage. The larvae migrate through the vessels of the intestinal mesentery and can cause thrombi (clots), infarctions, or inflammation of the vessels that, in turn, result in damage to the intestine. The adults are plug feeders, that is, they take bites of the intestinal lining that result in anemia and decreased absorption of nutrients. Fortunately, these worms are susceptible to most de-wormers. Small Strongyles – Referred to as the cyathostomes, the larvae of this group are of the most importance. The larvae burrow in to the intestinal lining and become encysted for several months before completing their life cycle. During this time, the larvae are resistant to de-worming. The intestinal mucosa is damaged when the larvae burrow in, especially when large numbers are present. Horses exhibit signs of weight loss, poor hair condition, lethargy, poor growth, and colic. Adult worm infestations also cause similar signs. Before and after they become encysted, they are susceptible to most de-wormers. Tapeworms – Anapolcephala perfoliata, Anophlocphla magna. Tapeworms were once thought not to be of much significance in horses, with a few exceptions in foals. Recent research has shown that large numbers of horses are infected. Tapeworms have an affinity for attaching at the ileum and ileocecal junction. This can lead to inflammation and ulceration, which impairs normal intestinal function. This intestinal malfunction can lead to three common types of colic – ileocecal intussusception, ileocecal impaction, and spasmodic colic. Fortunately, praziquantel has recently been approved for the treatment of tapeworms in horses and is very effective. Bots – Gasterophilus spp affect horses age two months and older. Horses may develop mouth ulcers where the eggs burrow in after entering the mouth. Some horses can develop stomach ulcers where the bots attach. Sensitive horses may have a decrease in performance due to the ulcers. Good grooming to remove the eggs from your horses legs will help to reduce their exposure, as will a targeted ivermectin treatment that is very effective in killing bots. The following worms are less of a threat to your horse’s health, but should be taken seriously and considered in your prophylactic de-worming program or when a problem arises. Lungworms Pinworms Pinworms– Oxyuris equi lay their eggs around the horse’s anus resulting in persistent itching and tail rubbing. Stomach worms Thread worms

Horse cooling off. HYDRATING YOUR HORSE Horses always need electrolytes, it is an important part of their health to maintain a correct balance of electrolytic salts. Horses in work need to be supplemented as sweat is a direct loss of these salts. The amount can vary, for example in winter a lower dose may be given (but a horse that hasn’t been clipped will sweat more and so need full levels). In summer, even no or light work the horse will benefit from a daily dose and horses in full work they are an absolute necessity. It is important to understand the need for a fully balanced formula that replaces all the salts lost in sweat in the right ratios. For horses in hard work such as racing or competing in hot conditions a more direct top up like Quicklyte will provide an instant replenishment and help recovery. Tye-up can often occur in horses just from dehydration. ​ Electrolytes – Why, When, What, How ​ When horses are working the muscular activity associated with training and competition results in a rapid increase in body temperature. The only way for horses to lose this excess body heat is via sweat production; in fact efficient muscle function is dependent on it. Sweat is the major route of fluid and electrolyte loss in horses, taking with it significant amounts of water and electrolytes from the body. It is a natural process so why worry about it – well the loss of water alone is debilitating but combined with a serious loss of vital salts and minerals can result in negative neuromuscular reactions from muscle cramping to tying up, systemic alkalosis. Without replacing the losses, the horses’ ability to sweat is reduced and therefore the ability to reduce body temperature is also reduced. It seems ironic but when the sodium is reduced by sweating, the horses’ thirst is also reduced and so it will not want to drink and therefore it exacerbates the condition of dehydration. In this instance a quick replacement is needed, ideally with chelated actives which are absorbed more quickly than standard salts and minerals. A product such as Quicklyte has been developed to help resolve the problem. Working a horse without providing electrolytes may result in dehydration which can damage the health of the horse. A salt lick is definitely not enough and anyway it has been proven that it is not possible for a horse to determine for itself how much it needs. Some horses chomp away and overdo the intake, others will not take enough. A horse does not have an innate ability to work out what they need, the human has to help. ​ When do Horses Need Electrolytes In very light work, or just resting in a paddock, a horse may get by without extra supplementation, especially when conditions are not unusually hot, or the horse is not sweating under his cover or getting stressed and running around – in other words no sweat. Sweating for whatever reason, training or competing or just hot weather does create a need for proper electrolyte supplementation, the harder the work or the hotter the condition – the greater the need. So when things get more serious and horses get ridden, the owner has to provide a correct electrolyte supplement. The greater the combination of hard work and hot weather – then the need will be greater so a high performance formula will be needed also in high performance days in hot conditions there will be a need for an instant fast acting electrolyte. Otherwise for more normal conditions a horse can be kept well balanced with a daily supplement of a standard formula added to the feed. Horses with gastric illness that creates diarrhoea will need electrolytes to prevent dehydration from the water lost from the gut. ​ What are Electrolytes for Horses Salts and minerals are a necessary daily requirement to support the health of the horse. The harder the work – the greater the level of supplementation. It’s not just about fast work as in racing or eventing, but all riding disciplines and especially when in hot conditions. It is important to know what constitutes sweat, what is lost and to check out what you are using to replace the losses with. Electrolyte composition of sweat: ChlorideSodiumPotassiumMagnesiumCalciumPhosphorus 7gms/litre4gms/litre1.3gms/litre.13gms/litre.25gms/litre.03gms/litre So you see that it is more than just sodium chloride and therefore merely giving a horse some salt is not going to replace the losses. We talk about the Dietary Electrolyte Balance (DEB) as being the total amount of electrolytes, a standard type mixed diet is usually not enough to meet the required DEB. To demonstrate this point, consider a basic diet of 6kg Grass/Hay + 3kg Oats + 3kg Sweet feed with no added electrolyte supplement. If we analyse this diet it equates to: ActualRequirementActualRequirement Calcium60gm47gmMagnesium19gm22gm Chloride46gm80gmPotassium145gm55gm Crude Protein1200gm1300gmSodium18gm42gm Digestible Energy30mCal30mCal This diet has a low DEB with Chloride, Magnesium and Sodium levels being low. Potassium is rarely deficient in diets based on grass and hay. An increase in the work of a horse will create a requirement for an increase in daily electrolyte supplementation as horses do not store sodium, potassium or chloride from one day to the next. Therefore electrolytes need to be adjusted according to the work level of the horse and the environmental conditions. Working in hot conditions will create a higher rate of sweat and therefore a need for greater replacement. When not in work the horse needs less, if over supplemented, it will increase water intake and urine loss. A correctly formulated Electrolyte supplement should contain Chloride and Sodium at a ratio of approximately 2:1 as well as Calcium and Magnesium at low levels. The equine kidney has developed to handle forage diets which are high in Potassium and low in Sodium. They easily excrete any excesses with no detriment to the physiology of the horse. As long as the kidneys are functioning properly and the DEB is correct, they will regulate and maintain the body’s Electrolyte levels. The idea of acid and alkaline Electrolyte supplements is now regarded by equine physiologists as unnecessary. Horses can develop a mild metabolic acidosis after intense exercise and may develop a metabolic alkalosis in situations of heavy sweat loss. In both these cases so long as there is sufficient Chloride in the DEB then the horses kidneys will sort out its own acid/base balance. Vetpro Equine Electrolytes are a neutral PH composition . How to Provide the Right Salts and Minerals It is difficult to assess a horses electrolyte status from a blood test, samples of blood and urine need to be taken at the same time and you need to consult your veterinarian for this. It is important to look for a full formulation to cover the basic needs of normal work and warm weather, and add this to the feed each day then as work increases and or the weather gets hotter, increase the recommend dose to the higher levels. For a higher demand – hardest work – hottest days – use a formula with higher levels such as the Vetpro Performance Electrolytes. To quickly support a horse on race or competition days or travelling – use Quicklyte with fast absorbing chelated actives for a rapid result. Daily supplementation should be continued as normal. Do check out the labels on products you are using, see if they are PH neutral, and if they have the correct amount of all the necessary salts and minerals in the right ratios. Warning: some premixed feeds say they contain electrolytes but will only deliver the amount on the label if you feed the amount of feed they recommend, often 5 to 7kgs of that feed. It is rare that happens and so the amount of actives will be reduced proportionately and therefore will not be sufficient for the needs of the horse. If you feed half the recommended amount of feed then you will only get half of the ingredients including supplements. ​

The Older Horse The Basic Care and Management What is considered old? Some older animals that are sound and still being ridden will seem younger than a horse retired and turned out, or one that has some injury or arthritic condition or metabolic disorder. These signs, in conjunction with having reached the later teenage years; will help define the condition “old” and therefore they are in need of a change in care and nutrition. The older horse definitely needs a different type of care and nourishment. Firstly good observation; most older horses are retired and turned out so it isn’t so obvious that something may be wrong. When you are riding or working with a horse on a regular basis it is much easier to pick up on issues as they start. For example unevenness, weight loss, chewing, breathing sounds, attitude. Even with an older horse doing some work it is important to pick up when the horse changes in appearance, ability to perform, willingness to work. Horses are individuals so defining old by birth date alone isn’t appropriate. Even though the horse may be having a regular dental check, take the time to run your fingers up inside the mouth alongside (not in-between!) the molars to feel for any sharp edges or cheek lacerations. Also smell the inside of the mouth in case of any abscesses that have been missed, keep a visual check on missing or overly worn teeth as the feed may have to be adjusted accordingly as the ability to chew is reduced. Eventually the older horse will be turned out to pasture and retired from work. They still need the same attention to detail of dental and hoof care, regular worming and grooming and cover changes and a regular check on condition. They will change shape so covers that always fitted may then slip and rub. They are more sensitive to changes in temperature too hot or too cold and that can result in not only discomfort but also weight loss. Shelter from wind and sun, changes in the covers as appropriate, electrolytes in warm conditions are all vital. They still need your special connection. Horses do have a special relationship with humans so withdrawing on them will have a negative effect. They will also need equine company but better over the fence, as younger horses in a herd situation may become bullies and may run the older horse around. ​ Care of the Joints of the Older Horse Keeping an ageing horse in some form of work definitely keeps them younger and puts off the onset of the negatives of aging, especially flexible movement – muscular condition – attitude. It is important therefore to reduce the effect of age on the joints, and this is easy to do by providing a fully formulated joint nutraceutical supplement with glucosamine, chondroitin, collagen type II and manganese. The cartilage in joints is like a sponge and is a cushion that keeps spongy because it retains water. The ability to do that simply put, relies on glucosamine. Glucosamine is converted to something called GAGS and this is the key natural chemical that creates the result. As a horse ages his natural levels are reduced and so the cartilage dries out and becomes hardened – just like the kitchen sponge. By increasing glucosamine levels the cushion effect will return. A good joint supplement will provide more than just glucosamine, chondroitin has been shown to assist the joints and a full formula will have other ingredients that will assist the glucosamine to bypass digestive extraction and increase availability for the joints. A newly discovered therapeutically beneficial option for joints is denatured collagen type II- also scientifically proven to offset the degeneration of joints. Gelatin is also proven to assist the synthesis of cartilage. Flex Equine Plus can really help as it contains all the recommended levels of glucosamine, chondroitin, denatured collagen gelatin, with organic zinc and copper and manganese ascorbate to create the conversion of the glucosamine to GAGS. ​ Feeding the Older Horse The most important requirement is correct nutrition and providing feedstuffs that are going to compensate for the changes in the digestive process and the ability to chew and process the feed. Even the best pasture will not be sufficient for all their needs. Not all older horses lose condition and with the stopping of work, may actually be too fat. Overweight is as unhealthy as underweight and does have implications for stress on joints and metabolic disorders. So don’t assume a retired horse needs lush pasture, check the condition under the rug and if appropriate put in a poorer grassed area, it is important to still supplement with minerals and the joint support nutraceutical, but with only a handful of feed as part of the normal daily routine. Primarily an older horse will not be processing the protein at the same rate as a younger animal. The key amino acids in protein – that’s Lysine and threonine – are reduced. These are vital for the inherent structure and uptake of the complete digestible protein and no matter how much protein you feed, unless these levels are brought up to balance, – the horse will lose cellular integrity and this is where the muscular-skeletal structure is diminished. The visual definition of the topline can be seen reducing, but importantly the inherent internal health is also reduced. A Lysine-Threonine supplement has been proved to be the most effective and economic solution, 50 gm per day is the requirement. Then the horse will take up all the available protein in the pasture and feed. Science has proved that overfeeding protein itself is not a good option. See our article ‘Protein –what, why, how ’. Due to excessive wear and loss of teeth, the feed itself needs to be easier to process through the mouth and gullet, so a soft moist feed with processed grain and high fat content is more ideal. For example boiled or micronised extruded barley, a meal such as soyabean or copra with a rice bran supplement and soft short fibre such as fibre mix is a good combination. Minerals are a must with a correct formula and a correct calcium – phosphorous ratio. The calcium needs to be higher than the phosphorus – ideal 2:1. The retired horse does not need the same quantities of minerals as a performing horse, so a more economic formula such as Everyday minerals will be correct. Bran is a useful addition and will create a soft mushy feed easily digestible but it does lower the calcium level so a mineral mix is a must. Horses on reasonable pasture and or given green feed will not need vitamins, it would be beneficial to have the covers removed on warmer days so they can convert their own vitamin D. There are several premix feeds on the market for the older horse, check the ingredients, if it contains supplements and lysine then check the levels and if in doubt add a supplement. Read the label of premixed feeds claiming to be especially for the older horse, you may be surprised to find they could be mainly flaked barley etc. Most importantly for the premix feed to do the job you need to feed the recommended amount, the odd dipper will mean an underdone horse and incorrectly balanced minerals etc. Always weigh the feed so you know exactly what you are feeding. If hay is needed, make sure it is good quality and not too mature when it was cut, wash it and feed slightly damp. For the horse with missing teeth the hay cubes that are soaked will be more easily processed. ​ Potential Health Complications of the Older Horse Old horses may develop metabolic disorders connected with insulin and glycaemic response. An example would be Cushing’s disease which in itself may lead to many complications such as laminitis, muscle atrophy, lethargy, slow healing and excessive hair growth. The nutrition of such an animal needs to be discussed with a veterinarian and often a low GI feed is needed. That is no or little carbohydrates with the emphasis on fat and fibre. Horses that may have kidney problems should not be fed too high a protein level so low protein percentage (e.g. no Lucerne, beet pulp or protein supplements), some lysine –threonine instead, with low protein feeds, e.g. copra meal (ideal), selected premix, rice bran mix, oat chaff dampened. Horses with liver problems will not tolerate high fat so this is a challenge for the older horse needing weight gain, boiled grain, fibre mix or short Lucerne chaff will need to compensate. As they need lower calcium too, adding bran to the mix may assist. In order to get these balances correct it would be wise to have a blood test and check the status of kidneys and liver with your veterinarian. Another health issue for the older horse concerns the respiratory tract, with disorders like COPD and IAD. Older horses will develop noisy breathing and are susceptible to a dusty environment. So it is important to keep them dust free, mould free in a healthy airy environment, preferably outside and fed dampened feed and washed hay at ground level. Better outside with warm covers than in a stable with poor ventilation. The hard breathing horse may be assisted with a nasal dilator like Vetpro Nasal-Eze which can also trap spores and dust particle before they pass up the airway. Although the older horse may have a regular (but not coloured) nasal discharge, be quick to notice any change in that discharge in terms of thickening or changing colour or having an odour. Keep warm and out of severe weather conditions, give an expectorant like Virex to break down thick mucus and therefore be expelled. If the condition persists after a week ask your veterinarian to check for a respiratory infection as a virus can often move to an infection. No reason why your older horse cannot enjoy a well-earned retirement but out of work is not out of mind and they still need your care and attention and companionship.

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30 Facts You Should Know About Your Horses Feet Dr Peter Gillespie BVSc MACVS The term foot and hoof are often used synonymously. By definition the hoof is the integument of the foot and the foot is the part of the distal limb encased by the hoof. The size of the foot is relative to the size of the horse. The foot continues to grow in size until a horse is 6 years old. The length of the toe is relative to the weight of the horse. The pastern and dorsal hoof wall should be parallel – the foot pastern angle should be straight. The front feet are more circular in shape to allow for expansion during weight bearing. The hind feet are more pointed to allow for traction during propulsion. The front feet are never steeper than the hind feet on the same horse. The angle of the heel should be within 5 degrees of the angle of the toe. The coronary band should form an angle of about 30 degrees with the ground. The diameter of the coronary band should be approximately equal to the vertical height of the hoof at the toe. When viewed from the solar surface the foot should be as wide as it is long. The sole should be concave. A flat sole will impede expansion of the hoof during weight bearing and is more prone to bruising. The soles of the front feet should be slightly less concave than those of the hind feet. The width of the frog should be 2/3rds of its length – any less and the foot is considered to be contracted. The bars should protrude slightly above the level of the sole. They should be about 1cm shorter than the wall to allow for hoof expansion during weight bearing. The hoof wall grows on average 1cm a month and should wear about the same amount. The part of the foot that bears the most weight will grow the least. The foot has several functions: Supporting weight Absorbing shock Resisting wear Provide traction Pumping blood Conduction of moisture The weight on the foot increases three fold when a horse is galloping. The hoof is flexible enough to absorb 70-80% of the impact during weight bearing. The foot has a landing side and a loading side – the landing side flares out while the loading side becomes more perpendicular in response to weight bearing. The outside wall of the hind feet is more slanted than the inside wall to aid in propulsion. The centre of gravity of the foot is 1cm back from the point of the frog. In an ideally conformed horse it should be plumb with the centre of gravity of the limb which is at the shoulder. Hoof quality is directly related to its moisture content which varies for different parts. The hoof wall is approximately 25% water, the sole 33% and the frog 50%. Extremely dry walls (<20% moisture) or extremely wet walls (>30%) are weaker and more susceptible to failure from loading forces. Water is nature’s hoof conditioner. It is the only preparation that has been shown to consistently have a positive effect on maintaining hoof moisture balance. As water is constantly being lost from the hoof it is important to replace it on a daily basis. Generally daily immersion in water for 10-15 minutes is sufficient. Oil and fat based hoof dressings cannot moisturise the hoof wall. The weight of the shoe should be as light as possible – 15 grams at the foot transfers to 450 grams at the shoulder. The foot is the dominant site of lameness in the performance horse. It should always be eliminated as a cause of lameness.

Any one who owns a gelding or a stallion should be aware that they have some special hygiene requirements. The equine penis secretes smegma to clean and lubricate the penis. The origin of the secretions is still disputed. However, it is known that smegma is composed of exfoliated skin cells, oils, and moisture. The equine penis, when retracted, is contained within the sheath. Therefore, the inside of the sheath will also become coated with smegma. A feature unique to the equine penis is the urethral diverticulum and fossa. This cleft like area around the urethral opening becomes an ideal location for smegma to accumulate. This accumulation is often referred to as a “bean” due to its oval shape. So if Smegma is naturally occurring, why do we have to clean it?! Some horses produce large amounts of smegma. Over time, the accumulation can begin to coat the sheath and ventral abdomen, making the hair gummy. This can become a minor grooming annoyance. More significantly, the smegma can take on an extremely unpleasant odor. It is one of those smells that once you have experienced it, you never forget! Most significantly, an over-accumulation of smegma in the urethral diverticulum can put pressure on the urethra, causing pain or obstructing the flow of urine. Some horses will manifest their discomfort by rubbing their tails, trying to scratch their sheath on whatever is convenient, such as shrubs and fences, not dropping their penis to urinate, or straining to urinate. How often should I clean my horse’s sheath? How often you clean your horse’s sheath and penis will depend on how much smegma he produces. Just as not cleaning your horse’s sheath can result in problems, so, too, can cleaning it too much. The penis has beneficial bacteria on its surface. The skin in this area is also very thin and sensitive. If you clean it too often or with harsh cleaners you can kill off the good bacteria or cause the skin to become dried out, inflamed, or cracked. This will allow bad bacteria to flourish and cause a skin infection. Most horses should have a thorough sheath cleaning every 6-12 months. A thorough cleaning will also allow you to examine the sheath and penis for any signs of neoplasia such as sarcoids, melanomas, and squamous cell carcinoma, habronemiasis or infections. Ok, I need to clean his sheath. How do I go about doing it? The cleaning process can be a challenge in some horse. Many horses find the whole experience quite unpleasant (as do many horse owners!). If your horse is upset by the procedure, it is best to have your veterinarian come out to sedate him. This will relax him and make him drop his penis out of the sheath. It will then be easier to clean the entire penis and check for a bean. Only mild products should be used for cleaning. Ivory Soap has been a staple for many years. More recently Sheath cleaning products www.hvhoofandequinehealthcareproducts.com/product-page/sheath-cleaning-gel-500ml containing gentle ingredients such as mineral oil have become available that help to soften the smegma to facilitate its removal. Plenty of warm water should be used to rinse away any soap or product you use. Avoid using betadine or chlorhexadine products unless directed by your veterinarian, as they are too harsh for routine cleaning. So none of this applies to the mares, right?! Wrong! Let’s not forget the mares when it comes to cleaning those personal parts. Although mares don’t product smegma in-between their teats, they do accumulate dirt, sweat, and dead cells there. This accumulation can become flaky, itchy, and a place for bad bacteria to fester. Mares will often cause self-trauma trying to scratch their udder on shrubs or fences, much like their male counterparts. You can use the same products on mares to soften and remove the debris between their teats. Use the same caution in approaching the procedure as you would with cleaning a gelding or stallion’s sheath. Some mares are very sensitive and will not tolerate the procedure. Call your veterinarian to come sedate her. Safety for all is priority number one.

WORRIED ABOUT A FOOT ABSCESS? Often called a stone bruise, a foot abscess is in fact an infection within the hoof that develops into an abscess and as the pus builds up, causes a lot of pain due to the pressure from the containment within the hoof. The infection stems from what can be just a tiny crack and the bacteria get in to the inner area of the hoof. After about 10-14 days the horse will become very lame and that can be alarming to the owner as they can be very reluctant to move or put any weight on the foot. Diagnosis is form testing the walls and sole of the foot for a reaction to pressure and this may pinpoint where the abscess is located, a bounding digital pulse may be present, and the presence of heat in the wall or sole or even around the coronet. In more severe cases that have not been picked up early there may be swelling up the leg. The remedy is to relieve the pressure and the horse will immediately show an improvement. This can be achieved by soaking the foot in a bucket (or poultice boot) with warm water and Epsom salts for 5 – 10 minutes. Then applying a poultice and protecting that with a bandage, and if the horse is in a paddock a rubber boot or some device to keep the foot dry and clean. A useful device is an inner tube which can be slid over the foot and doubled up so that it is up above the fetlock. Soft bandage the leg above the fetlock then use a waterproof tape like duct tape to wrap the ends of the tube onto the bandage. Continue poulticing until the pad shows no discharge when removed. If dealt with quickly and early enough this can often draw out the pus without the need to cut into the foot. A veterinarian or a farrier can create an incision in the sole and obtain drainage. Then poulticing will cleanse the foot and should be continued for at least 2-3 days. In cutting into a foot care must be given not to disrupt the integrity of the foot and too much paring or cutting may create further problems requiring a much longer recovery. Once the abscess has been drawn it is important to keep the sole clean until it heals, the use of Stockholm tar is helpful here and maybe if a hole has been cut a small wad of cotton wool soaked in the tar will reduce the risk of another infection. The tar will help harden up the sole which may have become soft from the dampness of the poultice. Keeping the feet in good condition is a good prevention, weak unhealthy feet with thin soles are going to be more vulnerable. The Farrier can assist horses with low flat soles. Using a supplement to assist quality hoof growth will be a useful prophylactic but needs to be given long term as hooves take months to growth down quality wall from the coronet. ​ HELP RESOURCES ​ 30 Facts You Should Know About Your Horses Feet Dr Peter Gillespie BVSc MACVS The term foot and hoof are often used synonymously. By definition the hoof is the integument of the foot and the foot is the part of the distal limb encased by the hoof. The size of the foot is relative to the size of the horse. The foot continues to grow in size until a horse is 6 years old. The length of the toe is relative to the weight of the horse. The pastern and dorsal hoof wall should be parallel – the foot pastern angle should be straight. The front feet are more circular in shape to allow for expansion during weight bearing. The hind feet are more pointed to allow for traction during propulsion. The front feet are never steeper than the hind feet on the same horse. The angle of the heel should be within 5 degrees of the angle of the toe. The coronary band should form an angle of about 30 degrees with the ground. The diameter of the coronary band should be approximately equal to the vertical height of the hoof at the toe. When viewed from the solar surface the foot should be as wide as it is long. The sole should be concave. A flat sole will impede expansion of the hoof during weight bearing and is more prone to bruising. The soles of the front feet should be slightly less concave than those of the hind feet. The width of the frog should be 2/3rds of its length – any less and the foot is considered to be contracted. The bars should protrude slightly above the level of the sole. They should be about 1cm shorter than the wall to allow for hoof expansion during weight bearing. The hoof wall grows on average 1cm a month and should wear about the same amount. The part of the foot that bears the most weight will grow the least. The foot has several functions: Supporting weight Absorbing shock Resisting wear Provide traction Pumping blood Conduction of moisture The weight on the foot increases three fold when a horse is galloping. The hoof is flexible enough to absorb 70-80% of the impact during weight bearing. The foot has a landing side and a loading side – the landing side flares out while the loading side becomes more perpendicular in response to weight bearing. The outside wall of the hind feet is more slanted than the inside wall to aid in propulsion. The centre of gravity of the foot is 1cm back from the point of the frog. In an ideally conformed horse it should be plumb with the centre of gravity of the limb which is at the shoulder. Hoof quality is directly related to its moisture content which varies for different parts. The hoof wall is approximately 25% water, the sole 33% and the frog 50%. Extremely dry walls (<20% moisture) or extremely wet walls (>30%) are weaker and more susceptible to failure from loading forces. Water is nature’s hoof conditioner. It is the only preparation that has been shown to consistently have a positive effect on maintaining hoof moisture balance. As water is constantly being lost from the hoof it is important to replace it on a daily basis. Generally daily immersion in water for 10-15 minutes is sufficient. Oil and fat based hoof dressings cannot moisturise the hoof wall. The weight of the shoe should be as light as possible – 15 grams at the foot transfers to 450 grams at the shoulder. The foot is the dominant site of lameness in the performance horse. It should always be eliminated as a cause of lameness. ​ ​

Changes in grazing can cause dietary upsets Eating weeds or non pasture vegetation can cause dietary upsets. Horses Gut Health – The What, Why, How of Equine Digestion using Probiotics and Prebiotics Supplements Why Do Horses need help with Gut Health? If food is not processed properly, issues such as gut pain and discomfort may occur and these in turn create negative behaviour of the horse, hindgut acidosis with its pain and risk of grass laminitis, poor condition and performance, overly sensitive reactions to demands of work and often early onset of fatigue. The horses’ digestive system will be influenced by conditions of environment- the pasture, the feed , the climate. It can be negatively affected by stress, particularly from travel and competitions or racing etc., also hard work. If food is not processed properly, issues such as gut pain and discomfort may occur and these in turn create negative behaviour of the horse, hindgut acidosis with its pain and risk of grass laminitis, poor condition and performance, overly sensitive reactions to demands of work and often early onset of fatigue. The horses’ digestive system will be influenced by conditions of environment- the pasture, the feed , the climate. It can be negatively affected by stress, particularly from travel and competitions or racing etc., also hard work. Sudden changes of diet and or work levels and routines plus sickness will also reduce the efficiency of the microbiome. With breeding stock – the onset of lactation and later weaning may cause disruption to the gut microflora. Any disruption can result in colic and or diarrhoea. In particular, the intake of antibiotics will break down the gut flora – as the name suggests they destroy bacteria – both bad and good. Any horse recovering from infections that have required administering anti-biotics will need supplementing with a prebiotic and probiotic to establish the gut flora. What is a Probiotic and a Prebiotic ? The difference between a Probiotic and a Prebiotic A Probiotic provides live beneficial bacteria direct into the animal’s gut A Prebiotic helps activate and feed the existing bacteria (microflora) in the gut. Both prebiotics and probiotics can work together to improve the diversity and availability and efficiency of gut bacteria, (often called the gut microbiome). Previously, adding live microflora as a supplement has been difficult due to the short expiry (use by) dates on available products. In the past, manure therapy was the easiest way; this entailed taking the clean manure of a healthy gelding, mix with water to make a slurry and syringe down the throat of the unhealthy horse. This is also why foals will eat manure at 10 days of age to naturally establish their gut flora. However, nowadays we have access to new Probiotics that can have a better shelf life and are readily available to be added to the diet, for example Yeasts such as Saccharomyces cerevisiae. The most effective Prebiotics for horses are Fructo-oligosaccharides (FCOS) Mannooligosaccharides (MOS) Scientific tests have shown the benefits of these in particular, that by improving the volume and activity levels of the bacteria in the gut, it has a direct health benefit to the horse. How Can The Horses Gut Health be Improved with Supplements? There are scientific studies to show that this is the case, see below. However, it is important to select the supplements with the active ingredients that are specifically supportive of equine digestive tracts. Scientific tests have shown Fructo-oligosaccharides (FCOS) and Mannooligosaccharides (MOS), benefit horses health by reducing the bad bacteria E Coli, reducing the acid effects in the hindgut thus reducing discomfort and the possibility of laminitis. They also show that Probiotic yeasts improve the numbers of good bacteria which in turn assist digestive processing of food, making the transfer of food to energy much more efficient. Thereby improving weight gain and reducing fatigue. Summary of the use of Probiotics and Prebiotics The greatest opportunity to improve the status of the gut health of the horse is to feed a combination of both these active supplements, thereby helping to negate the difficulties a horse faces at times when environment or work levels change, and in particular when sickness and or infections take hold. Any of these changes can reduce the efficiency of their gut. A course of a combined Prebiotic and Probiotic formula is ideal to help them get through these times and stay healthy and reduce negative events in their gut. EquineCare Pro and Prebiotic. – contains both FCOS and MOS Prebiotics combined with the Probiotic yeast Saccharomyces cerevisiae The Science :- Effects of dietary short-chain Fructo-oligosaccharides on the intestinal microflora of horses subjected to a sudden change in diet F. Respondek, A. G. Goachet and V. Julliand Jnl Animal Science 316-323 Dietary supplementation with short-chain Fructo-oligosaccharides improves insulin sensitivity in obese horses F. Respondek, K. Myers, T. L. Smith, A. Wagner and R. J. Geor. Jnl Animal Science 77-83 Fructo-oligosaccharide supplementation in the yearling horse: Effects on fecal pH, microbial content, and volatile fatty acid concentrations. Obesity and diet affect glucose dynamics and insulin sensitivity in Thoroughbred geldings By: Hoffman, RM (Hoffman, RM); Boston, RC (Boston, RC); Stefanovski, D (Stefanovski, D); Kronfeld, DS (Kronfeld, DS); Harris, PA (Harris, PA)JOURNAL OF ANIMAL SCIENCE Volume: 81 Issue: 9 SEP 2003 Can the microbiome of the horse be altered to improve digestion? Coverdale JA. J Anim Sci. 2016 Jun;94(6):2275-81. doi: 10.2527/jas. 2015-0056 : Abstract : When high-concentrate diets were fed, probiotic supplementation helped maintain cecal pH, decreased lactic acid concentrations, and enhanced populations of cellulolytic bacteria. Similarly, use of prebiotic preparations containing fructooligosaccharide (FOS) or mannanoligosaccharides have improved DM, CP, and NDF digestibility when added to high-fiber diets. Furthermore, use of FOS in horses reduced disruptions in colonic microbial populations after an abrupt change in diet and altered fecal VFA concentrations toward propionate and butyrate. Potential use of prebiotics and probiotics to create greater stability in the equine microbiome impacts not only the digestibility of feed but also the health of the horse. Effect of live yeast culture supplementation on apparent digestibility and rate of passage in horses fed a high-fiber or high-starch diet1 doi:10.2527/jas.2006-796 J.-P. Jouany*, J. Gobert†, B. Medina†‡, G. Bertin† and V. Julliand‡2 Effect of Live Yeast Culture Supplementation on Hindgut Microbial Communities and their Polysaccharidase and Glycoside Hydrolase Activities in Horses Fed a High-Fibre or High-Starch Diet JP Jouany et al. J Anim Sci 87 (9), 2844-2852. 2009 May 22.